Ernest Hemingway was here

Osteria Madonnetta
Via Vajenti 21, Marostica

Giving top marks to a restaurant doesn’t happen very often but when it does, I’m already making plans for a return visit. With Osteria Madonnetta, that day can’t come soon enough. Serving typical cuisine of the region in what I can only describe as ‘a place with a lot of history on its the walls‘, it’s a locale that every traveler, intrepid or non, should experience in this beautiful country. We couldn’t stop talking about the lunch we had there even when it was time to leave Veneto and head back home.

Osteria Madonnetta vino
“Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world.”
~ Ernest Hemingway

Owned by the same family since 1904, the osteria is hugely popular with locals and tourists. Their most illustrious visitor was ‘Papa’ Hemingway himself when he was stationed in Italy as an ambulance driver during the Great War. If those walls could talk! Delicious homestyle cooking and the friendliest service ever from start to finish. This place is a true gem.

Baccalà alla vicentina
Baccalà alla vicentina – oven-baked in milk and served with polenta.

Fegato alla veneziana
Fegato alla veneziana (venetian-style liver)

Osteria Madonnetta cheese plate
Cheese (L-R): ubriaco, aged asiago, 3rd?, asiago, ricotta w/onion, pumpkin and kiwi compote

Maccafame (the osteria’s signature bread pudding) with dried prunes soaked in grappa(?)

After dinner espresso and grappa at Osteria Madonnetta Brothel pricing sign
After dinner caffè and grappa / amusing brothel – casa di tolleranza – sign on the wall

Olive oil tasting at Osteria Madonnetta
Olive oil tasting from local producers

Osteria Madonnetta is just around the corner from Piazza degli Scacchi (where the human chess game is held in September). Small dogs are welcome in the restaurant. Reservations strongly recommended.
Website: Osteria Madonnetta
Social: Facebook
Google indoor map (virtual tour): step in and take a look


6 thoughts on “Ernest Hemingway was here

    1. Rowena Post author

      Kat you just reminded me! They’re on google indoor maps so it’s possible to get a sneak peek inside the place. We were sitting at the end of the table right next to the fireplace. Talk about cozy 🙂


      1. Rowena Post author

        The portuguese have a well-established community where I’m from so I grew up eating a lot of baccala (bacalao) salad. I love it cooked in any way too! 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

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