As each Christmas goes by we’ve been doing less and less of the traditional foods, and more of whatever we feel like eating as long as it fits within the theme of things. From what I’ve learned, the italo-american custom Feast of the 7 Fishes on la Vigilia di Natale (xmas eve) is not practiced everywhere in Italy, but I like the idea of an all-seafood meal in one sitting so fish it always is on the 24th. Lobster souffle, seafood risotto and sea bream baked in salt on the menu tonight. And tomorrow? A 4-inch high dish of wild boar lasagna along with a salad of raw fennel with oranges because we intend to spend much of the 25th on snowshoes, weather permitting. On Sunday it gets even BETTER as I’m busting out the bagna cauda dishes for a lot of veggie dipping to go with the reckless imbibing for the entire afternoon. Oh, and did I forget to mention cheese? Panettone and pandoro? Bombardini with lots of whipped cream? Wishing you all a zipper-busting, button-popping christmas!